![]() This shows that it engages near the forward end of the contact area. Step 16ġ6: Apply a little grease to the door latch mechanism again and close and open the door to see where the door latch engages the replacement striker. Caution: don’t go Incredible Hulk on this because it compresses the door jamb fiberglass. Step 15ġ5: Tighten the door striker to 35-50 LBS-FT per the factory assembly manual. Hold the spacers in place while tightening the striker with an 8 MM Allen wrench. Step 14ġ4: Install at least the same number of spacers that were on that door striker and install the striker. ![]() Step 13ġ3: Tip: Before installing the spacers, screw the striker all the way in to make sure the threads do not bind. Step 12ġ2: Apply a little grease or oil on the door striker’s threads to aid in this installation or in future removal. This makes positioning of the spacers easier because the striker will not drag the spacer with it when it is tightened. Rotate it until it turns freely to remove any burrs. Step 11ġ1: Tip: Hold the door striker’s spacer and turn the striker all the way in until it is flush with the spacer. Step 10ġ0: The door striker’s nut is in a cage that allows a considerable amount of adjustment in all directions. Tip: order two more spacers than the car currently uses. The door strikers are sold individually and 1968-1982 Door Latch Striker Spacers (also called washer/shims) come two to a pack. Step 9Ġ9: Zip’s new reproduction 1968-1982 Door Latch Strikers and their spacers for C3s are a big improvement in function and appearance. If the striker is too tight or if its threads are rusted, use locking pliers instead to grasp the head of the striker. If that tool is not available, a ¼ inch Allen wrench can work to remove it. Step 8Ġ8: The old door striker had a T47 Torx head. This grease mark shows that the latch mechanism is engaging in the center of the striker’s contact area. Step 7Ġ7: Close the door and then open it to see where the grease is on the door striker. This will show where the door latch engages on the striker. Step 6Ġ6: Tip: Apply a little grease on the door latch mechanism and wipe clean the contact area of the door striker. ![]() Step 5Ġ5: Placing tape on the door jamb helps to show the position where the striker was adjusted when the striker or spacers were not painted over. This helps prevent the paint from peeling or chipping off the door jamb when the washers are removed. Step 4Ġ4: Tip: Use an X-Acto knife or similar sharp blade to cut any thick body paint that is on the shims. The striker position can be adjusted to move the door in or out but is not designed to move the door up or down. Step 3Ġ3: Note the alignment of the door to the body. ![]() The paint covering the shims is evidence that the striker was not removed, or masked, during a repaint. Step 2Ġ2: The rubber cushioning material has been squeezed out of the passenger side door striker. Both of these are relatively fragile finishes that eventually degrade. According to the NCRS judging manual, the original 1973 striker was cadmium plated and the spacers were gray phosphate plated. Step 1Ġ1: The old driver’s side door striker became pretty dingy looking after decades of use. A new striker can hold the door more securely when closed plus makes a big difference in the appearance of the door jamb.įollow along as we replace and adjust the strikers on a C3 and provide a few tips along the way. ![]() Yet it is one of the easiest parts to replace and you won’t even get your hands dirty. However, like many things that are used so often, it gets overlooked. The door striker is a part that gets used twice every time you get into your car (assuming you get out of it). ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |